And boyyyyy, I’m so glad I got to climb this peak! We had a late start from Seattle, stopped for lunch in Marblemount, and eventually hit the trails
I got paired with a co-worker, Justin. Here’s our first glimpse of the objective!
Andrew and Francois were also along for the climb
The weather was lovely
A few hours later, we were just about at camp, by Wing Lake
Arriving to the camping area for the night at around 5pm
We hung out, napped, read, ate snacks, made dinner, and were ready for bed by 9pm
The clouds were neat
Sunset views from the bivy
First light
We got going at around 530am
We had about an 1-hr approach to the start of the climb
I have never been above the clouds like this…
It was pretty spectacular
Making our way towards P1
Nearly there
One more step from the snow to the rock
…and then we hit some traffic with a group from The Mountaineers
So we waited around for about an hour, and another group from the Mazamas showed up
Francois
Justin
We eventually got started. The purpose of this outing was to get some simul-climbing experience in. Here’s the view from the end of the first pitch
The second pitch had an airy step
After the third pitch, we were well ahead of the other team, so Justin and I hung out here for a few hours… three I think
Eventually, the clouds burned off
The crux! if you look down, and slightly to the left of the hand crack, you’ll see a nice little nub to edge or toe on… then, you’re through!
At around here, I realized I left my a7R on, so my battery died 🙁
The good thing though, is that I had my Pixel 3 in my pocket, and it shoots RAW!
The phone’s camera is prettttty spectacular. Here’s the summit block.
I had kept my camera battery in my pocket, so I was able to manage this shot from the summit
And this shot with Justin
Francois and Andrew showed up, and we got our summit selfies
Then we rapped the summit block, and scrambled down the South Ridge
The descent was just a buncha loose rocks and kitty litter
We eventually hit the snow bowl, and made our way back to camp
…and then we packed up camp, and got the fuck outta there!
About 30-minutes from the parking lot, we had some good views of sunset 🙂
I think Black Peak was exactly what I needed after Argonaut. My stoke was back, it was a great group of guys to climb with, and everything was Type 1 fun 😀